#Overclock mac pro 4 1 Patch#
#Overclock mac pro 4 1 mac#

(and the resistors arent red on the board. that black button, is actually the base of the heatsink pad and is actually a smaller diamater than say a motherboard mounting screw. but here is a photo of where they are, and what they look like. Heres is the 'table' for which speeds you get just changing the 4 (more) easily accesible resistors: but i think the new ones are all shipping with the same, larger heatsink) Also, you may have better luck OC'ing the 1.42 because the processor might be of a tighter tolerance, so it would be able to handle faster speeds. while this doesnt matter going up to 1.42GHz (even 1.5 in most cases) the 1.42GHz's heatsink is required to go above 1.5 and be reliable (not POSITIVE. the 1.25GHz minis and the 1.42GHz minis shipped with a different heatsink. Now, for any of you who would like to try overclocking your mini.

#Overclock mac pro 4 1 mac#

in the case of my mac mini, it was already a 1.42GHz mini from the factory, so to jump up to 1.58GHz, all i had to do was remove R351. you could just as easily make it say 'G4 Pizza Edition' or something. the system profiler actually doesnt test to see what the speed is, it just looks up in a table and spits back the text contained in the cell for the selected frequency multiplier. not a big deal, because it really is 1.58GHz. if you DONT, and you do successfully overclock to 1.58GHz, it will show up in 'About this Mac' and so forth as a 750MHz G4.

#Overclock mac pro 4 1 Patch#

after changing to 1.58GHz you also have to patch the frequency tables in open firmware (hint. but you only need to move that jmper if you want to go above 1.58GHz, and at that point, youd also have to replace the thermal pad on the heatsink with some artic silver or something. to get to it you have to remove the heatsink, and thermal gasket. the 5th 'jumper' is R52, and that is found next to the processor itself. only 4 are visible on the bottom of the board R362, R358, R355, and R351. in the case of the mini there are 5 jumpers. There are several charts online that show which jumpers result in which speeds. i also found a data sheet somewhere that says 400-100 ohms is appropriate for reliability.) so, other than the fact that these resistors are just about the size of a human hair, it is only a matter of changing jumper positions. the 'jumpers' are actually submicromini surface mount resistors (general opinion is that they are just 0 ohm resistors, essentially opening and closing the 'switches', but my test with my meter shows that they are 1K ohm resistors. The mini is really no different than any other G4, and it uses essentially 'jumpers' to open and close different traces that set the clock multiplier and such, except that instead of the actual jumpers that you would encounter on say a beige G3, or something like that.